DL ENGINE FAQ

Are spare parts available?

We stock all spare parts for DL Engines.

Detailed parts diagrams and parts price lists are available in the web store and in the downloads/Manuals section.


Warranty

The manufacturer's warranty is that "the engine will be free of defects at the time of sale".

In addition to the manufacturer's quality control, we inspect all engines physical defects before shipping to the customer and provide a 24 month Australian Warranty for manufacturing faults with the engine (Note: We do not disassemble or test run or tune the engines) 

This Warranty only applies to engines purchased through DL Engines and Hobby Australia or DL Engines Australia authorised re-seller

Warranty is not transferable from original purchaser.

Engines purchased from EBAY or from other sellers will not be covered by us for any warranty claims, nor will we act as an agent for a claim to the manufacturer for warranty claims on engines not purchased from DL Engines and Hobby Australia.

The engine is not covered by warranty for any issues arising from misuse, poor tuning, wear and tear, crash damage or faulty/poor or inappropriate installation by the end user.  The ignition warranty does not include damage caused by supplying too high an input  voltage, vibration damage or use without a spark plug firmly connected.

Warranty is void if the engine is disassembled without authorisation from DL Engines and Hobby Australia .  

Warranty claims must be accompanied by a copy of your original invoice, and warranty card with Matching Serial number.  

Warranty is return to base, and the cost of shipping and insurance back to DL Engines is to be paid for by the purchaser. Insurance on shipping is highly recommended. We cannot be held responsible for items lost in transit sent to DL Engines and Hobby Australia.

DL Engines and Hobby
Australia will not accept returns sent freight forward or COD.

Please contact us first regarding any issues before sending engines back to us. We might be able to just ship you the replacement part, depending on the claim.


I have seen DL engines cheaper on EBAY etc, why buy one here?

To start with, we are the Authorised DL Engine dealer/distributor in Australia. We deal direct with the factory.  

One of the conditions of being an authorised agent, is a minimum advertised retail price.

Most Ebay sales of the DLE are drop shipped from China. The seller does not have stock, and pays an agent in China to ship the engine to you without ever seeing the engine themselves. There are also many small web sellers importing engines from Chinese retailers, these are not covered by factory warranties and support. You will have to rely on the seller to help you and supply warranty for engines they sell.

We import the engines and keep them in stock ready to ship. 

The engines we import are thoroughly examined by us for physical defects. You can be confident in getting a complete engine, with no parts missing or obvious manufacturing defects.

We include our own English instructions, and back the engine up with warranty and support. We also keep a complete parts inventory.

If you do have problems, you deal with us in Australia, not an overseas email address that may disappear at any time. You can also be confident that we have the necessary backing direct from the manufacturer.

Check out the DLE website for the list of official distributors  www.dlpower.net


On the DLE-20 DLE-30 DL-50 & DLE-55 Can I Rotate the Carb 180 degrees, as I need the throttle linkage on the other side?


Yes. Undo the two bolts securing the carburettor and reed block to the engine, rotate, and bolt back on.
 

The new version even has the pulse tube for the fuel pump connected direct to the reed block. You no longer need to extend the tube if you rotate the carburettor.

Having the pulse tube tapped into the reed block also extends the life of the tube, as it is better insulated from the engine heat.

 

The carburettor on the DLE-30 side carb can also be rotated 180 if you want the throttle linkage on the bottom instead of the top of the carburettor. Rotate the carburettor only on the side mount version, not the plastic block/spacer otherwise the pulse hole will not line up. You may need to adjust the tune slightly also.

The rear mount carburettor DLE-30 can be rotated 180 with or without the reedblock.

 

The carburettor on the DL-100, DLE-111, DLE-170 and DLE-222 can not be rotated 180. the pulse line in the reed block will be blocked and fuel will not pump.

 

Who makes the ignition?

Ignition is made by RCEXL in china

 

The RCEXL ignitions supplied with the DLE-20 and DLE-30 have customised timing to suit these particular engines.

The DLE-111, DLE-170 and DLE-222 all share the same ignition modules


http://www.rccdi.com/

 


Are DL-50 and DLE-55 mounting dimensions the same as a DA-50 ?

 

Prop hub pattern is the same.

 

Muffler mount is the same (you can use mufflers designed for the DA-50 with this engine, bolt straight on)

 

Engine mounts also have almost the same spacing. If you previously had a DA engine installed, you can bolt the DL engine in place if you use the engines mounts supplied with the DL Engine. There is a 1mm difference each way in the mounting pattern.  Most of the time it will bolt straight on if you loosen your mounts slightly, fit the engine and retighten or use the supplied machined standoffs. Depends on how accurately the original mounting holes have been drilled on the plane, and how much 'extra'  (ie oversized mounting hole) movement is available in your existing bolt holes.

 

The overall physical dimensions are slightly different. If you where to bolt the DL in a plane that had a DA in it previously you will find the muffler will sit about 4mm further back, and the prop hub will be a bit further forward.

 

The muffler supplied with the DL50/DLE-55 is slightly larger, compared to the stock DA one.

 

You can rotate the carby if you throttle linkage is on the other side.

 

The bolts used on the DL-50 and DLE-55 are all 5mm metric sizes.
 

Mounting bolt pattern is 80mm wide and 67 mm high (centre to centre) see mounting Template
 

Distance from back of mounting lugs to face of prop hub is 102mm , and the supplied standoffs are 68mm.
 

Total length of motor from back face of stock standoffs to front face of prop hub is 170mm
 


Does the mounting plate on the DL100/111 have the same dimensions as the DA-100?


Yes, mounting plate/hole spacing is the same

 

Prop hub pattern on the DL-100 / DLE-111 is also the same as the DA/3W 100 engines

 

Engine length from back of mounting plate to face of prop hub is the same as DA100 at 167mm

 

Engine is 256mm wide from outermost points of cylinder head without plugs/caps fitted. With spark plugs and caps fitted is approx 288mm wide

 

We have more pictures and dimensions in our photo gallery at www.dlenginesaustralia.com/gallery

 

Does the mounting plate on the DLE-170 have the same dimensions as the DA-170?


Yes, mounting plate/hole spacing is the same

 

Prop hub pattern on the DLE-170 is also the same as the DA-170 engines and uses 6mm prop bolts

 

The exhaust flange sizes are very different, and stubs/flanges specific to the DLE-170 will need to be used. (Very close to port on older ZDZ-210 engine)

Canister / Tuned pipe sizes suitable for most other 170 size engines are also suitable for the DLE-170

We will have more pictures and dimensions in our photo gallery at www.dlenginesaustralia.com/gallery

 

Ignition Battery

 

The latest version DLE ignitions can now handle up to 8.4 volts (2 cell Lipo/Li-ion/A123/Life and 5 cell NiMh) these ignition have the new voltage range printed on them.  If you not sure you have the latest version, please contact us and we can advise you how to check

 

The previous version ignitions can not handle 2 cell lipo etc directly and the following is recomended.

 

4 cell 4.8v 1200mah+ pack recommended.

 

5 Cell 6V packs can be used, but must be regulated between 5.2 and 6.0 volts

 

2 Cell Lithium Ion / Polymer Batteries can also be used. But again the voltage must be regulated.

 

Voltages above 6V will damage version 1.0 ignitions. This is not covered by warranty.

Version 2 ignitions can handle up to 7v maximum input, but be careful a 6v battery hot off charge will be over 7 volts!

 

Really a 4.8v 4 cell pack is all that is required. Higher voltages just cause the ignition to run hotter and consume more current.

 

A freshly charged 5 cell pack will output around 7 volts, and a regulator must be used. The same applies to 2 cell A123 packs

 

Disconnect the battery from the ignition system while charging the battery.

 

The ignition module should be connected to the battery through a heavy duty switch. Standard receiver type switches that come with your radio are not suitable.

 

We recommend a heavy duty switch with a built in charge jack that disconnects the battery from the ignition when the switch in the off position. This also provides a handy connection point to check your battery voltage before flight.

 

We also recommend some sort of electronic kill switch that will stop the engine in the event of receiver signal or battery failure. Pick one that will also you to kill the engine quickly from the transmitter without relying on choke or throttle trip to shut down the engine.

Another option is an ignition battery eliminator. These devices draw power from the main receiver pack for the ignition and also provide a kill switch function. Good quality units provide filtering to prevent any interference coming back from the ignition to the radio system. This will save the weight of an additional battery pack and switch which is particulary useful for smaller models/engine sizes.

 

Spark Plug

 

DLE-20/30/50/55/100/111/170/222 use a NGK-CM6 spark plug.

 

The stock supplied plug is a DLE name Chinese substitute/equivalent to NGK CM6.


The real NGK plug is a better plug, and will last longer.

Engines purchased through DL Australia are now also being supplied with a genuine NGK plug/s
 

Be careful not over tighten the plug. The engine head/thread is aluminium. If you over do it, you will strip the thread.

 

The recommended torque range is  9.5-10.7 NM (7 to 8 ft-lbs).
 

 Running in or Breaking in the Engine in the Air

 

Use petroleum based oil (such as Castrol Active 2T), light loads and light throttle use during the first few hours of use.
 

You can also use full synthetic oil from the start with DLE engines. Run in time will take longer. (Redline oil is not suitable for run process)

       

You don't want to overheat the engine.

 

Ensure it is adequately cooled, with sufficient air flowing over the cylinder head cooling fins.

 

Full power climbs, and hovers etc are not recommended during the run-in process.

 

Correct (not excessively rich) fuel air mixtures and correct fuel to oil ratios help here.Learn to tune the engine or get help from
someone that is experienced with tuning petrol walbro type carb engines

 

The additional oil in the fuel mix provides the extra lubrication required during the break-in. You do not run the engine mixture rich like you would with a glow engine for break-in.

 

Tuning the engine properly takes time and patience and will make a big difference in how your engine runs. You will need to retune several times as it is being run in. And also if you change your fuel/oil mix or even type of oil being used. Different brand oils burn at different rates and will affect power/tune

 


What Oil should I use?

 

Some examples of 2 stroke oils available suitable for running in include Castrol 2T, Castrol Active 2T, Mobil Extra 2T, Shell Advance 2T / Advance SX2, Penzoil Air Cooled 2 Stroke.

 

Synthetic oils suitable for use after run-in include Castrol TTS (30~40:1), Belray HR1 (30~40:1), Mobil Racing 2T (30~40:1), Red-Line 2 Stroke Racing Oil (30~40:1) Stihl Ultra HP (30~40:1) , Shell Advanced Ultra 2 (30~40:1)
 

There are many types available that are suitable, always use a good quality brand name oil, both for run in and normal running.

 

Motorcycle shops are a good source for quality oils. Remember your engine will spend most of time somewhere between 2000 - 5000rpm so castor based motorcycle/go cart racing oils designed for very high rpm should not be used.

 

Never mix different brands of oils together. Put measured qty of oil into container, then add fuel to ensure it is well mixed. Measure carefully and accurately in a clean environment, and use clean containers. Install a fuel filter inline on your fuel can/pump, clean fresh fuel is important!

 

High octane petrol is not required or recommended.  In Australian 89 ~ 95 max octane is all that is needed

The DLE factory recommend an oil ratio of 30:1

How much oil do I mix for what ratio?

32:1 is 31ml of oil per litre of petrol/gasoline
40:1 is 25ml of oil per litre of petrol
/gasoline
45:1 is 22ml of oil per litre of petrol/gasoline
50:1 is 20ml of oil per litre of petrol/gasoline